Pork Vindaloo With Potatoes
TRCC West Bengal Rifles Mango Chutney 270g
$12.95
Hand-packed and dispatched from our Corio, Victoria warehouse, with free delivery Australia-wide on orders over $100.
By Jodie Smith, Product & Hamper Manager at The Gourmet Pantry.
Pork vindaloo with potatoes is a slow curry built on one jar. Brown 600g of diced pork shoulder, soften an onion with garlic and ginger, tip in a 354g jar of Maya Kaimal Spicy Vindaloo with 150ml of water, simmer for an hour, then add the potatoes and give them another 45 minutes. Serves 4.
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Serves 4. Prep 20 minutes. Cook 2 hours 15 minutes, most of it unattended.
Sour before it is hot
A vindaloo is a vinegar curry that also happens to be hot, and the order matters when you are deciding what to put in it. The sourness is the loud part. It needs something to land on, and the two things that catch acid best are fat and starch. Pork shoulder brings the fat, potatoes bring the starch, and between them they hold a sharp sauce in place. Put the same jar over chicken breast and there is nothing in the pan to soften the edge, which is why that version so often tastes thin.
The name is Portuguese in origin and has been worn down over four centuries in Goa. We went through that history in the vegetarian chickpea version of this dish, so read that if you want the background rather than the pan. The short version for cooking purposes: vinegar and garlic came first, the dried chillies came later, and a good jar still tastes of both. Maya Kaimal builds this one on vinegar and tamarind as much as on chilli, and that acid is exactly what the pork fat and the potato starch are in the pan to absorb.
The cut of pork that does the work
Buy pork shoulder, sold in Australia as shoulder, collar or scotch. It carries fat through the muscle and enough connective tissue to turn to gelatine over a long simmer, which is what gives the finished sauce body without any flour or cream. Ask for it boned and rindless, and cut it yourself into 3cm cubes so the pieces are even.
Pork fillet and loin are the wrong end of the animal for this. They are lean, they are done in 10 minutes, and an hour in an acidic sauce leaves them dry and stringy. Belly works but turns the pan rich in a way that fights the vinegar. If the butcher has only diced pork, look at it before you buy: if the cubes are pale and uniform with no marbling they came from the leg, and they will need the simmer cut to 40 minutes with the potatoes going in at the same time.
The potatoes, and when they go in
Use a waxy variety: kipfler, nicola, chat or dutch cream. Sebago and other floury potatoes drink sauce and then collapse into it, which thickens the curry but leaves you nothing to fork. Cut the chunks at 4cm rather than 3cm, because they sit in the pan for the last three quarters of an hour and anything smaller rounds off to nothing.
The part worth knowing is that potatoes soften more slowly in an acidic sauce than in plain water. Acid keeps the pectin between the cells intact for longer, so a chunk that would be done in 20 minutes in a salted pot wants closer to 40 in a vindaloo. That cuts both ways in your favour: they hold their shape, and they hold it again when you reheat the curry the next day. Test with a skewer rather than the clock, and do not parboil them first. Going in raw, they shed a little surface starch that thickens the sauce as they cook.
Method
Method
- Pat the pork cubes dry with paper towel and season them with half the salt. Wet meat will not brown, and the browning is where this dish gets its depth.
- Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a heavy casserole over medium-high heat. Brown the pork in three batches, 4 to 5 minutes a batch, turning so each piece takes colour on at least two sides. Lift each batch onto a plate. Crowding the pan drops the temperature and the meat steams.
- Turn the heat down to medium and add the remaining oil, the onion and a pinch of the salt. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring now and then, until the onion is soft and going gold at the edges.
- Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute, until the pan smells sweet. Do not let the garlic brown or it will turn bitter under the chilli.
- Return the pork and any juices on the plate. Pour in the jar of vindaloo. Half fill the empty jar with the water, put the lid back on, shake it out and add that too.
- Bring to a simmer, scraping the base of the pan to lift the browned bits, then turn the heat as low as it will go. Cover and cook for 1 hour, stirring every 20 minutes.
- While it cooks, peel and cut the potatoes and keep them in cold water so they do not discolour. Drain and pat dry before they go in.
- Add the potatoes and push them under the sauce. Cover and cook for 35 minutes.
- Take the lid off and simmer for another 10 minutes to reduce. A skewer should slide into a potato chunk with no resistance, and the pork should give way against the side of the spoon. If either is not there yet, give it 10 minutes more.
- Taste. Add the rest of the salt if it needs it, the teaspoon of brown sugar if the sour edge is too sharp, or the tablespoon of red wine vinegar if the long cook has left it dull.
- Rest off the heat for 10 minutes with the lid on. The pork keeps softening and the sauce settles.
- Serve over basmati rice with yoghurt or coconut cream spooned on, coriander scattered over, and the mango chutney and lime wedges on the table.
Questions people ask
What makes a vindaloo different from other curries?
Vinegar. Most curries are built on aromatics, spice and something creamy or tomato based, with any sourness in the background. A vindaloo puts the acid at the front, which is what the dish inherited from its Portuguese ancestor, and layers the chilli over the top of it.
How hot is a jarred vindaloo sauce?
Hot, and this one says so. Maya's own description of this one runs to black pepper, red and green chilli, vinegar and tamarind. We taste everything we range, and this reads as a proper vindaloo rather than a mild sauce wearing the name. Chilli heat dissolves in fat and not water, so yoghurt or coconut cream pulls it back at the table.
What cut of pork is best for vindaloo?
Shoulder, in 3cm cubes. It has the fat and the connective tissue to survive a long simmer and to give the sauce body as the collagen breaks down. Diced leg will do at a pinch with a shorter cook. Fillet and loin will not, because they are cooked through before the sauce has done anything.
Can you make a vindaloo in a slow cooker?
Yes. Brown the pork and onion in a pan first, cut the added water to 50ml because nothing evaporates under the lid, then give it 4 hours on high or 7 on low with the potatoes in for the last 2.
If you are buying the jar
Maya Kaimal Spicy Vindaloo is $12.95 for a 354g jar, which is one pan of this and nothing left over. The full Maya Kaimal range is the page to watch for what else lands, and the milder end of the same idea is in our older piece on cooking with Maya Kaimal sauces and the chicken tikka masala that came out of it.
On the side, Indian Light Infantry fruit chutney is the sweeter alternative to mango if the heat is hard going, and the rest of the jars and dry goods sit under pantry. Everything is picked and packed by hand in our Corio room in Victoria. Orders placed before 12pm on a weekday are dispatched the same day from our Corio, VIC warehouse, tracked with Australia Post, and shipping is free Australia-wide on orders over $100.
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